Instruments

Red Henry

"When should I change my strings?" That's a question we often hear. New strings usually sound better, but there are as many answers to this question as there are musicians. Some things that you can consider are:

1. There's no 'official' time to change strings. I used to change the strings on two guitars and two mandolins every day when we played bluegrass festivals, but Bill Monroe changed his strings once a year-- at New Year's-- and from then on, he just changed them when they broke (which was pretty often, by summertime).

2. Some people like the sound of old strings. Our Cousin David loves the sound (or lack of it) that old strings have, and would probably prefer never to play on new-sounding strings. I think that brand-new strings can sound a bit tinny, myself, but sometimes-- such as when I have a big stage show to play, or a noisy party gig or bar gig where there's going to be plenty of musical stress and challenge-- I'll make sure at least that my strings aren't too old.

3. Generally speaking, newer strings make your instrument get in tune (and stay in tune) better. This is because (a) a new string isn't worn from playing and is still about the same diameter from one end to the other, so it "frets" more in tune; (b) the string is not very corroded yet, so it slides through the nut-slots and bridge-slots more smoothly as you twist the tuners; and (c) the lack of rougher, corroded surfaces on the string make its vibrations more coherent so you (or your electronic tuner) can hear the string's note better. Also, new strings (or preferably a day or two old. so they're "stretched" and stable) are usually better for recording, because getting exact tuning, and having the strings stay there, is really critical if you're in a recording session.

. . . . .

So those are some things you can think about.

Editor's Note: For even more detailed info on this topic, you can see Red's previous post on this same topic.

Red Henry


809 bridges. That's right, 809 of them. That's how many mandolin bridges (mostly maple) I have made since I started making them in the summer of 2002.

About 130 of the bridges were experimental models made while I was developing the idea and the design. Here are some of the bridges I made while I experimented with designs and woods:

--as you can see, I tried lots of things. Altogether, I tried about 25 mandolin bridge designs and over 30 different woods. In the end, though, maple proved to be the best-sounding wood, and I settled on just two designs for my production bridges, the 11-hole design and the winged design shown above.

All these experiments showed that maple usually provides the best combination of tone, volume and sustain for a mandolin bridge, and I eventually began selling the bridges. Over 750 bridges have been made for sale and shipped them out to customers, and most of those bridges are now installed on someone's mandolin. I have several site-pages devoted to the bridges, including my "hard-sell" page.

So, what conclusions can I draw from selling bridges for eight years? Well, for one thing, making and selling mandolin bridges won't make you rich. But the bridges are certainly worthwhile, when you see the look on a mandolin owner's face when he or she first hears their mandolin with a maple bridge on it!

Red

Red Henry

Red Henry


Folks, I just ran across a photo and wanted to share it with you. A few years ago, a member of the "Co-Mando" mandolin email list held a gathering at his house in Maryland, a couple of hours' drive from here. Our friend David McLaughlin rode over to the gathering with me, and we joined nine or ten other mandolin players for an afternoon of visiting and picking.

At one point, we lined up our mandolins on a soft couch so that everyone there could try all of them out (it's called a "mandolin tasting", and someone took a photo. Here it is:
Mandos104

Seen here at the party are 11 mandolins, my mandola, and my home-made mandocello conversion. Among the mandolins are the two I brought (Randy Wood #1 and #3), as well as the one David brought (a 1923 F-5). Others seen in the photo include two Rigel mandolins, one late-1950s Gibson, and a few other makes. The other pickers were especially excited to have the chance to play that 1923 F-5, after David generously put it on the couch for "tasting." They were also amused to play Randy Wood #3, the one formerly owned by Bill Monroe, and get themselves a few molecules of Bill as they played. (My four instruments in the picture are distinguished by their light-colored maple bridges.) See if you can pick out David's Loar in the photo!

As you can guess, a good time was had by all. And we've got the pictures to prove it!

Red

Red Henry

Red Henry

As many of you know, I make one-piece maple mandolin bridges, and we offer them on our website. A week or two ago I mentioned that for bluegrass mandolins, I was thinking of going back to an older model I used a few years ago, which featured "wings" on the ends of the bridge. This bridge-type might deliver a few percent less volume than my standard design, but is has advantages in the low end richness, sweetness, and sustain it produces:
WingedBridgeMar2010

Well, I have made the change. For bluegrass mandolins, I'll be offering this 6-hole winged bridge. For other bridges, to go on oval-hole and round-hole mandolins, my regular 11-hole and 6-hole designs will continue to sound great; the wings don't seem to matter as much on those kinds of mandolins.

Interested? If you have any questions, drop me a line at redhenry@visuallink.com .

Red Henry

Red Henry

Do you ever pick up your banjo or guitar or mandolin to play it, and you know that somethings "just not right?" Especially if you haven't been playing for long, you might not be able to put your finger on what the trouble is. You might just know that you're not comfortable playing the instrument, and it just doesn't sound right or play right. Well, chances are that you're NOT just making it up. Something really is wrong, even if you can't put your finger on it.

I've mentioned before that I'm a student pilot now, trying to get my pilot's license. Well, I went out to make a solo flight last Monday. I was assigned an Cessna 172 that I'd flown before, but not recently. And from the time I sat down in the pilot's seat, I just didn't feel comfortable. I started the engine and took off, and everything went normally but it "just wasn't right."

I decided to make a landing or two before heading out to the practice area. The airplane felt awkward in the landing and as I let the nosewheel down onto the runway, suddenly the whole plane started shaking loudly: BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG, and it didn't stop. I thought the nosewheel had gone flat. We often get what's called "nosewheel shimmy" after landing, but this was ten times worse than that.

Well, I did get the airplane off the runway, and after that it acted better and none of the tires were actually flat. I taxied back to parking and reported the trouble. I suspect that the nosewheel strut is badly out of adjustment. I had just KNOWN something was wrong with that airplane even before takeoff, but I didn't know what it was. I found out when it was time to land. It wasn't dangerous, but it was inconvenient! To me, something had happened to the airplane invisibly, and my hands and mind had been trying to tell me.

Something analogous happened to one of Murphy's banjo students recently. He knew that something had gone wrong with his banjo, but he wasn't able to tell just what it was. He knew he wasn't comfortable playing it any more, and the action had come up, but that was all he knew. So after his lesson, I took a look down the neck -- yep, it was pretty bowed. I took off the adjustment rod cover and got a socket-driver to adjust the nut. Sure enough, it had worked loose. I let down the string tension, tightened the nut, and brought the strings back up to pitch. The neck was straight and the action was back low again. Must have taken me at least three or four minutes. But to the student, it was quite a problem. It was something that had happened invisibly to his banjo.

When you pick up your instrument and start to play, your hands and mind send you signals. If it all just doesn't feel right, there may be something wrong! Get your teacher or an instrument-savvy friend to take a look and see what might be wrong. If something's "just not right," it might not just be your imagination!

Red

Red Henry

Red Henry

As you may know, if you look around at a festival or browse through the pages of Bluegrass Unlimited, or especially if you're a member of Banjo Hangout, there are a lot of banjo bridges on the market. And they're a wide variety of sizes and shapes. The traditional Grover-style bridge now has many competitors. Some are compensated, some are curved as seen from above, some are lighter, some are heavier, and some have radically innovative designs. Several modern bridgemakers put a great deal of craftsmanship into each bridge, and are rewarded by substantial prices. But is there a magic bullet?

I've done a lot of experimenting with banjo bridges, and I've come to the conclusion that there's no one bridge that sounds best on all banjos. Some banjos like a traditional bridge. Some like a compensated bridge (though their traditionally-minded owners may or may not). Some banjos sound best with this or that bridge. And the only way to find out which bridge a particular banjo likes, is to try bridges out and see how they sound! Bridgemakers I've spoken to generally agree with this, too.

This is not a note of pessimism, it's a note of optimism. I mean, that so many fine and well-made bridges are available now that the folks who want to experiment can do so with lots of excellent bridges, and see which one their banjo likes best. If you are not used to doing things like switching bridges, my advice is to STICK WITH WHAT YOU HAVE. But for those brave folks who like to tinker with their banjos, there's plenty of opportunity these days to see how they like the sound of different bridges!

Red

Red Henry

Red Henry

Last week I told you about a Randy Wood mandolin I'd just bought on eBay. Well, I'm glad to say that the instrument is really turning out well. I've set it up with medium-gauge bright-bronze strings and a maple bridge, and the tone and volume are constantly improving. Here's a photo of the mandolin before I changed the strings:

Randy Wood Mandolin #

Randy Wood Mandolin

When it arrived, the mandolin had a set of light-gauge phosphor bronze strings on it, and they were some of the deadest strings I've played on. Now, dead strings are not always bad, but this set had nothing left to give. I switched them for medium-gauge bright-bronze strings—the kind of bronze that’s yellow in color. Bright bronze seems to last a lot longer for me, and never really goes as dead as those old phosphor bronze strings had done. They turn from reddish to brown as they age, and then seem to lose most of their tone.

The maple bridge made a big difference too. Looking for as much bass response as possible, I put on a soft European-maple "winged" bridge, and the sound really came through with a lot of solid low end. (For a look at some bridge types, see my bridge page at www.murphymethod.com/redbridge.html.)

After changing the strings and bridge I've taken the mandolin out to some picking sessions, and I've had a good time with it. Its sound comes through quite well, even if there are some guitar, banjos, basses, and other loud instruments present. That's what I like! I think that a mandolin really needs to shine through when taking a break, no matter how big the jam session, and thanks to world-class builder Randy Wood, this mandolin does just that.

Y'all pick purty--

Red

Red Henry

Red Henry

Folks, a new Randy Wood mandolin arrived here last Friday, fresh from eBay. I say "new," but it's actually got some age on it, having been made in October of 2000. It’s just old enough for the lacquer finish to have dried out and the sound to come in, and it really sounds good.

Randy Wood, who lives near Savannah, Georgia, really knows how to build a mandolin. After a few adjustments and (naturally) a maple bridge, this instrument sounds great. It's got plenty of clarity and projection, which most quality mandolins do have, but this one also has an unusually good low end with plenty of solid bass. It also plays very easily, having been set up with an ovaled fingerboard, scooped fretboard extension, and medium frets:

Randy Wood Mandolin #

The new(-ish) Randy Wood

Now, you might ask, did I really need another mandolin? Well, the answer is yes and no. I do have a couple of other mandolins, but there are times when, because of the weather and because they’re pretty old and delicate, I'd rather leave them in the house. Now when it's hot or cold and we have to play outside, I've got an excellent standby instrument to use. And it has a Mighty Fine sound!

Next time you need a good mandolin, just call Randy and see what he has in stock. He usually has on hand two or three of the mandolins he's made, and they're all for sale. They do cost something, but a Randy Wood mandolin is a lifetime instrument. Look Randy up at randywoodguitars.com .

Y'all pick purty--

Red

Casey HenryOne of the gals in my At Least We're Hot picking group (which I've previously written about here) just got a new banjo and we're all very excited. Connie's husband Jeremy surprised her with it as a Christmas/Birthday/Anniversary present. Made by Chuck Lee, down in Texas, it is a beautiful instrument that plays wonderfully.

Here are Connie and I at our jam last Saturday... (Photo by Myrna Talbot.)

Connie Garrett and Casey
Connie wrote a nice story about her new prize possession on Chuck Lee's Blog. Up to now she's just played rhythm clawhammer (bum-diddy, bum-diddy) but, inspired by this banjo she's got "Old Joe Clark" down I think, and maybe "Angelina Baker," which is our biggest hit, by the way. We look forward to hearing them at our Hottie Christmas Party on Monday!

Chuck Lee, coincidentally, says this: "We own a bunch of the Murphy Method videos (guitar-bass-fiddle-mandolin-banjo), most of the older music cassettes by your parents and family.  I learned my first three-finger banjo songs with your mother and I learned my first clawhammer songs with your mother and Lynn Morris.  Your family has had a positive impact on my family.  Thank you." We're always happy to spread the music!

I now must go and finish putting up my Christmas tree!

Casey HenryAs I was reflecting on what to write about today, it occurred to me that several students of mine have gotten new banjos in the last year or so. One, I'm happy to say, bought my very own Casey Henry model banjo. Her old banjo was a Stelling Murphyflower. Now she's the only person in the world who has both a Murphy banjo and a Casey banjo! I'm also in the process of selling my Stealth banjo, which I bought when I was in college. Someone was asking me about it, trying to decide if he wanted to buy mine or wanted a new one. I, in shamelessly trying to influence him to buy mine, gave him some things to think about which generally hold true for all used vs. new banjos.

#1. It's cheaper. This is frequently the case, except when you're talking about pre-war Gibson flatheads.

#2. It's available now. When you order a banjo from a smaller maker, like Stelling, or Kel Kroydon, they make each one as it is ordered and it usually takes two or three months, unless you find a dealer who has some in stock.

#3. It's good and broken in. Nothing can replace the settling in process of an instrument. A new banjo doesn't sound as good as it's going to right when it is put together. All the parts need time to settle and start vibrating together. As a general rule, the older an instrument is, if it has been well cared for, the better it will sound (relative to itself). Your pawn shop banjo is never going to get so old it starts sounding like a Granada, but I bet you it sounds better than it did the first day it rolled out of the factory!

#4. You can play it. I always recommend playing an instrument before you commit to buying it. Even if you don't play very well yet, you can tell a lot by holding the instrument in your hands and plunking a few notes on it.

I know not everyone has a neighborhood banjo store where you can go and play lots of different banjos. But if you are thinking about investing in a quality instrument, it is well worth the trip to a place that stocks many banjos, or to a convention or festival like the IBMA Fan Fest, so that you can try them out. When you pick up the banjo that you are meant to have, you'll know it!